I started out the day with a silver making class. Very interesting - my design that is. The Bali Sun - that's is what I will call it. I'd never done silver jewelry before so this is an experience. It's an experience that I probably will not do again because I will not make it my hobby. But it's a great experience and something I can be proud of.
So after the class, I decided to take the walking tour. My walking tour. Started at the Pura Taman Saraswati (Ubud Water Temple), behind the Cafe Lotus. Beautiful lotus pond with a cafe overlooking the pond. At night, there is the traditional dancing for the people to see. I could imagine it to be very beautiful and exciting, exotic, and romantic. So I took lots of photos.
Then I walk up to where I left off on Monday. Went back to the bridge before the Blanco Renaissance Musuem, but I couldn't find Pura Gunung Lebah, a temple with a view over the Cerik River). So I went to the 'Welcome to Penestanan' sign and walked up the steps. Walked up to some pictureques rice fields to Made's Warung - favorite hang out for both tourist and local.
Since I ate already, I didn't stop for lunch but cross the bridge over the stream. Further up there were steps leading to Pura Desa Puseh and bale agung, the village gathering place. There were people working on a project, restoring there village. Stopped at a small store to get some bottled water and rest.
Bali is very humid, so a little work can make you sweat profusely. One might think that I am also from the tropic, I should get use to the weather. Well, you never get use to it. And that's why retirees retire to Florida.
While walking along the road, up and down the hill, I was stopped by two little girls. Sisters, can't be more than four and six. "Photo, photo" they kept on yelling. My young models really love the limelight, so I obligate them with a couple to pictures.
Kept on walking until I ended up on a busy street. Asked directions to Sayan Terrace. Before I reached the Sayan Terrace Hotel, there is a newly built Four Seasons Villas. Why not, I thought, so I walked up to the guard and asked if I can take a walk in the premises. To my surprise, they happily obliged and down the hill I went.
all I saw was the gates and gardens of the villas. It rally didn't matter, I just want to say to the people at home that I visited the Four Seasons, Sayan Terrance. Photos would not describe the full. Alas, times like these, I want a partner so proper tourist photos can be taken.
I took a rest at the front to the driveway where guest would pull up to enter the cafe downstairs. I forgotten his name, but the door person at the Four Seasons was very accommodating. I was afraid I was disturbing his break for he was about to read the paper. After small talk, an interesting small talk, the sky appeared ominous and it's time to leave.
I went on to Sayan Terrace, the original resort, overlooking the rice terraces. I just wanted to see Colin McPhee's house in Bali. That was my intention for day, however, I was expecting a museum or even a house with a plague that stated historical importance of the house. I found nothing of the sort, just a broken house with the gate still intact.
Before I carried on my journey, I really didn't know where I was until a young, local fellow came to me and assisted me on my journey forward. Ngura was his name and he was so kind to take trekking through the hills and rice field.
He was a real village boy, not even from Ubud but a next village over. He was at Sayan Terrace, probably waiting for someone like me to come along so he can have something to do. He took me to views over Sungai Ayung, the rice fields, and over the river, crossed a rope bridge on to the holy spring.
The trek was about 6 kilometers around the terraces. I came across the irrigation dams which were built before WWII and are manually raised for the irrigation of the rice fields. The workings of the dams were decided by the group of the villagers who still farm the terrace. At the moment, mid November, the dams are raised so that field can be flooded for the seedlings. Depending which rice are grown, the average field can accommodate to four harvests. That's plenty of rice for Bali.
Besides rice, the farmers grow sweet potatoes, yams, tapioca and other crops. People live by the harvest of land and what is left over is sold. The forest also hole lots of wonders that I can not seen before like Vanilla plants and cacao fruits. Unfortunately, Indonesia do not make cocoa powder or chocolate from the cacao they grow. With the present day advances, there are some enterprising chefs that make chocolate from the local cacao but for local consumption.
Down to the river we went. There were fishing and bathing done on the Sungai river. Ngura pointed out the house where Claudia Schiffer and David Copperfield rent when they stay at Sayan. That was over ten years ago- there are many more houses for rent now.
For a short cut, we have to wade through the river to get back to Sayan Terrace. I was sure I wanted to go that way because I was in flip-flops and no change of clothes. So he convinced me to take off my short so it would not be wet- the river came only to the waistline. I knew he wanted to go swimming, with me of course, but I'm not partial to swimming or skinny dipping with a stranger. So when we got across the river, I told Ngura that he could go swimming (skiiny dipping) if he wants, but I am not going swimming.
This is best done in the dry season when the ground is not so damp and the river is almost dry. Trekking with only flip-flop is not recommended. On the way up, the ground seemed more slippery than on the way down. More wet spots one the way up which was a challenge because now my legs are about to give out and it's getting late. I went over and beyond my intentions for the day.
When we got back up the terrace, the same spot where we started, that is when I discovered that the broken down house is Colin McPhee's house. No museum, no plague, just a few pillars and the gate are left of the house. The local owner does not want to sell the land nor does he want to to fix the house (obviously). It's a pity because Colim McPhee was the composer who introduced the West to gamelan music--the eerie,haunting music one hears all over Bali. Bali would not be Bali with gamelan music lingering in the atmosphere.
It was not as late as I thought. Ngura gave me a ride on his bike to Ubud, my central station of Kafe, at 6 PM. I wanted to shake Ngura off, just because... but I didn't. Instead I asked for a local dinner and some night out.He hung on because he's a free lance guide and I'm his tourist for the day.
November is low and slow season for Bali. Back in Phuket or Samui, it's the beginning of high season, so I thought it would be the same in Bali. Serendipitously, it low season - just the way I like it because I get to see more and learn more.
to be continued. . .
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